Encapsulated Nails: What They Are and How to Create Them
Discover what encapsulated nails are, how to create them with clear acrylic or gel, and how to apply the technique to aquarium nail designs. Learn shaping, colour choices, and embedded art placement for a personalised look.
Contents
What Are Encapsulated Nails?
Encapsulated nails are a nail art technique where decorations such as glitter, dried flowers, foil, or stickers are sealed between layers of clear acrylic or clear gel. The result is a smooth, glossy finish with the design suspended inside the nail, creating a three-dimensional, jewel-like effect. The term comes from the process of 'encapsulating' the embellishment within a transparent overlay, protecting it and giving depth to the design.
Materials for Encapsulation
To create encapsulated nails, you need a clear building medium – either clear acrylic powder and liquid monomer or clear builder gel. The choice between acrylic and gel affects the working time, odour, and curing method. Acrylic sets by chemical reaction and is typically faster to file, while gel requires UV/LED curing and offers a self-levelling, non-porous finish. Also required are:
- Nail forms or tips – to extend the nail if desired.
- Embedded decorations – such as glitter, mylar flakes, dried flowers, nail foil, or small stickers.
- Clear top coat – for final shine and protection.
- Basic nail tools – brushes, files, buffers, and a UV/LED lamp if using gel.
Technique: How to Encapsulate Nail Art Step by Step
The encapsulation technique involves building a thin base layer of clear product, placing the decoration, and then covering it with another layer of clear product before shaping and finishing. Here is a general step-by-step guide for both acrylic and gel systems:
- Prepare the natural nail: Cleanse, push back cuticles, lightly buff the nail plate, and apply a bonder or primer appropriate for the system.
- Create the base layer: Apply a thin layer of clear acrylic or clear gel over the entire nail. For acrylic, allow it to set to a workable hardness (still slightly tacky). For gel, cure under the lamp for the recommended time (usually 30–60 seconds for a thin layer).
- Place the decoration: Using a damp brush or a wax-tipped tool, pick up the chosen embellishment and gently press it onto the tacky base layer. Arrange it to achieve the desired pattern, ensuring it lies flat and does not extend beyond the nail edges.
- Encapsulate the decoration: Apply a second layer of clear acrylic or gel over the entire nail, completely covering the decoration. This encapsulation layer must be thick enough to bury the embellishment and allow for filing without exposing it. For gel, cure completely.
- Shape and finish: Once the product is fully set, file and buff the nail to the desired shape (e.g., almond, coffin, square) and smoothness. Ensure the surface is even and the decoration is not visible as a bump. Finish with a clear top coat and cure or air-dry accordingly.
For decoration placement, consider the nail's natural curve: decorations placed near the free edge may need extra encapsulation to prevent lifting. Thicker or chunkier items (like large glitters or 3D charms) require a thicker overlay to achieve a smooth finish.
Encapsulated vs. Aquarium Nails: Key Differences
Aquarium nails are a specific type of encapsulated nail design that creates a hollow, sealed chamber between two layers of clear acrylic or gel, often filled with a liquid, glitter, or tiny beads that move when the nail is tilted. While both techniques use clear layers to embed decorations, the main difference is the presence of a cavity in aquarium nails. Standard encapsulation usually has the decoration in direct contact with both layers, whereas aquarium designs leave a small gap that allows movement.
| Feature | Standard Encapsulated Nails | Aquarium Nails |
|---|---|---|
| Structure | Decoration sandwiched between two layers, no cavity | Two clear layers with a sealed empty space in between |
| Movement of contents | None; decoration is static | Contents (glitter, beads, liquid) move freely |
| Complexity | Moderate | Higher; requires precise sealing to avoid leaks |
| Durability | Very durable; decoration fully embedded | Durable if sealed correctly; risk of breakage releasing contents |
| Best for | Flat decorations like dried flowers, foil, fine glitter | Loose, small items like micro beads, chunky glitter, or coloured liquid |
Aquarium nails are more striking but also more fragile and technically demanding. The cavity must be perfectly sealed to prevent moisture or air from entering, which could cause lifting or fungal issues. For most clients, standard encapsulation is a safer, longer-lasting option, while aquarium nails are reserved for special occasions or experienced nail technicians.
Choosing Shapes and Colours for Encapsulated Designs
Encapsulation works with any nail shape, but certain shapes enhance the depth effect. Longer shapes like almond, stiletto, or coffin provide more surface area and a greater thickness gradient, allowing for a more pronounced encapsulation layer and better visibility of the embedded art. Shorter shapes like squoval or round can still be encapsulated but may require thinner layers to avoid bulk, making fine glitter or small decals more suitable.
Colour choices dramatically affect the final look. Since the overlay is clear, the decoration's colours are seen through a transparent layer, which can slightly magnify and enrich them. Complementary colour schemes – such as gold glitter with deep blue base, or pastel dried flowers on a nude base – create elegant contrast. Monochromatic designs using different shades of the same colour add subtle depth. Consider the natural nail colour or a coloured base coat beneath the clear encapsulation to change the background: a milky white base gives a soft, ethereal effect, while a black base makes neon glitters pop.
To follow a colour across designs, choose a palette of three to four colours and vary the decorations: for example, teal and gold can appear as glitter, foil, or tiny shells across different nails. This creates a cohesive set while allowing each nail to be unique.
Creating a Personal Collection: From Inspiration to Your Next Look
Start by collecting images of encapsulated nails that appeal to you. Notice what draws your eye: is it the movement of aquarium nails, the delicacy of dried flowers, or the boldness of chunky glitter? Then identify the common elements – perhaps you prefer almond shapes, pastel colours, and fine glitter. This helps you describe your preferences to a nail technician or guides your DIY attempts.
For a first encapsulated design, consider a simple glitter fade encapsulated in clear gel or acrylic. Apply a neutral base colour, then place glitter near the cuticle or tip, and encapsulate. This introduces the technique without the complexity of multiple decorations. As you gain confidence, experiment with layering different materials, such as combining foil and glitter, or adding a small cavity for an aquarium accent nail.
Remember that the shaping and finishing stage is crucial: a perfectly encapsulated nail should have a smooth, glass-like surface with no bumps or exposed edges. File gently and check the shape from all angles to ensure the decoration is fully buried. A high-shine top coat completes the look and protects the design.